…ON THE LIMOUSIN UPLAND PLATEAU, AND PARTICULARLY IN THE PAYS DE POMPADOUR

Cattle-rearing has always been a dominant feature in this area, milk-fed veal representing a very significant share of beef fatstock production right up till around 1975, when we had the calves known as “St Etienne calves” weighing between 350–400 kg on the hoof, mainly sold into the St Etienne area, whence the name; then a class of heavier calves “over 500 kg”, mainly destined for sale in the Lyons area.

From the 70s onwards, production has grown slightly, along with the size of farms. Rearing milk-fed calves has been abandoned by many farmers as being too labour-intensive. On some larger farms, the production of ‘St Etienne’ and ‘Lyons’ calves has likewise diminished, turning into less demanding outdoor extensive farming.

These changes in the production systems have mainly tended towards favouring the production of leaner animals, and are continuing in this same direction. A current move back towards fattening will lead in the future to a modernised form of breeding/fattening. This method brings added value to the rearer, while lessening the lean producers’ dependence on the Italian market, which absorbs a large share of this production.

This area has always been a region of quality rearing: many farmers rear breeding animals, breed, and are constantly improving the Limousin breed, well-known for the quality of its meat. In this quest for genetic improvement, the Pompadour Stud, through the Estates Department, has played a major part in the work of research, and also of bringing methods into everyday usage.

The first breeding bull for improving the Limousin breed sold abroad was born at Le Monts (a division of the Stud) in 1967.

The Pays de Pompadour is also home to:
- sheep-rearing, though nowadays this is increasingly being abandoned in favour of other activities.
- pig-rearing, whether the local “black-rump” breed, the quality of whose meat today receives only
marginal recognition and appreciation, or so-called ‘industrial’ production, which has never really got a foothold in this area.

Heavy horses are raised only for field clearance after cows; yet the number of mares is tending to increase. Might this be the combined result of being in Horse Country and the interest shown by the Stud in the development of heavy horses?

The green pastures of the Pays de Pompadour are ideal for all kinds of livestock rearing.

…THE FIRST VARIETY OF APPLE TO BE GETTING AN APPELLATION D’ORIGINE CONTROLEE (AOC)!

Since 1994, the Syndicate for the Protection of Limousin Apples has been working towards the granting of an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) for the ‘upland Golden Delicious’. Spring 2003 saw a significant advance in this quality process, with a report on the delimitation that proposes a geographical area of 96 communes, with the Pays de Pompadour at its heart.

This centuries-old cultivation of orchards has always been an integral part of the identity of Limousin, and hence, of the Pays de Pompadour.

a] A few centuries back into history:

It is told that Turgot, Intendant of Limousin in the 17th century, taking refuge from a storm one evening in a farm near St-Germain-les-Vergnes, very much enjoyed an apple. He sang its praises, finding it crunchy, juicy and perfectly-formed… So it was christened St Germaine, and was the first apple to establish the reputation of Limousin Apples.

The first Golden Delicious apples made their appearance on the Corrézien plateaux in the 50s. Very soon, they took on the personality of their new homeland and today they proclaim their distinctiveness by being particularly full of flavour. Limousin producers had seen this coming, and the upland Golden Delicious deserved the best of their land. From 400 ha of orchards at that time, it made rapid progress: today in the Limousin region, the Upland Golden Delicious is predominant, with 600 producers growing it over 4,200 ha. Though current production is running at 120,000 t p.a., the forecast is for harvests exceeding 180,000 t. This continual progress, due to the rare and sought-after qualities of the upland Golden Delicious, now makes it possible to think that soon 10–12% of the Golden Delicious produced and consumed in Europe will be grown in Limousin.

b] Upland Golden Delicious — the morning dew suits its complexion.

The Upland Golden Delicious is very at home on the Upper Limousin plateau, above 300 m asl. On this out-of-the-ordinary land, the morning dew and the coolness of the nights gives it the personality aficionados know and love: a colour delicately tinged with pink that makes your mouth start watering right away, and an unforgettable crunch into a properly tasty apple.

Studies show that this alternation of cold nights and hot, sunny days favours the development of aromatic substances and pigments that lead to this characteristic rosy blush. This phenomenon is seen when the orchards are located at medium altitude, 300–500 m asl., on friable soils with a coarse texture and good permeability. Only in this kind of area, where all these conditions come together, does the Golden Delicious take on this elongated form and special flavour, the result of a charming balance between sugars and acidity.

c] Rosy-cheeked Upland Golden Delicious — other apples will pale with jealousy.

This variety known to all is often decried, for it is often grown in unsuitable areas or with excessive yields. Yet on the plateaux of Upper Limousin, of which Pompadour is historically the centre, it takes on an inimitable quality. Today, with the Limousin Upland Golden Delicious, those who seek authenticity can at last rediscover the taste that the Golden Delicious had lost.

This is why the Syndicate for the Protection of Limousin Apples is working unceasingly to obtain a sign of recognition that is worthy of the quality of this territory-specific product: the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, never before awarded to an apple. For Limousin Apples can only be grown in Limousin, just as Roquefort can only be made in Roquefort.

d] The best argument in favour of the Limousin Apple is to bite into it.

The Limousin Golden Delicious is characterised by extraordinary crunchiness. From the harvest in September right round to the following August, its juiciness, its subtle balance of sweetness and acidity are major assets that producers eagerly present during fairs and shows, as well as at tastings in sales outlets. The Limousin apple producers are keen to promote the character of their crop gained through low yields and harsh climatic conditions typical of upland areas.

… SECOND-LARGEST FRUIT PRODUCTION IN THE PAYS DE POMPADOUR

Following the example of the Limousin Golden Delicious, another fruit crop is seeing real success and is contributing to local expansion: raspberries.

This crop is primarily centred around Concèze. The first raspberry canes were planted in this commune in 1956 by Germain Decay. Results were rapid and encouraged other producers to try this crop. The raspberries are mainly turned into preserves, followed by freezing, with fresh fruit sales coming last.

This delicate fruit is grown in family businesses. Picking requires delicacy and dexterity, so is done by hand, at a rate of about 3 kg per hour.

a] A legendary fruit, associated with “slimming” meals

It appears that Jupiter tasted this fruit thanks to the nymph Ida who picked them for him, and he enjoyed them a great deal. With only 40 kcal per 100 g, this fruit is highly prized today in the preparation of “diet” meals. It has the advantage of being equally suitable to be served in a starter or as a dessert, in dishes that combine sweet and savoury, or sweet-and-sour. This fruit also reveals its flavours in liqueurs, brandies or cream liqueurs. Rich in calcium, it also provides phosphorus and vitamins.

Down the centuries, the way this fruit is used has changed: though today we use them in cooking, in the 17th century raspberries were used in pharmaceutical products or perfumes for their 'therapeutic' values.

b] Production

Mainly produced in Concèze, raspberries are also grown in the districts of Lubersac and Juillac (800 t).

Four varieties are encountered:
  • Malling: an early raspberry
  • Meeker: a single-fruiting raspberry intended for the fresh fruit market, as well as freezing and preserves.
  • Heritage and Autumn Bliss: two double-fruiting varieties reserved for the fresh fruit market.

In Spring (late April–early May), the flowers bloom, presaging the first pickings which start in June and end with the first frosts.

Concèze, in the heart of production area, has decided to celebrate this fruit like Jupiter did, by devoting an annual fête to it, every July. That way, everyone gets a chance to sample these raspberries thanks to the famous giant tart (Guinness record in 1997).